American Pale Ale (Batch #???)

If anyone has actually been reading this blog, I'm sorry for the lapse in postings. I've done a few batches since my last post, and have progressed to full grain, full 5 gallon boil batches. It makes the process a LOT longer, but also simpler in certain ways, and it also has the advantage of making the batches cheaper. Going all grain costs significantly less than using DME or LME.

Here's the latest batch I just put into primary:

American Pale Ale
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Target Ranges:
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OG: 1.045-1.060
FG: 1.010-1.015
COLOR: 5.0-14.0 SRM
IBU: 30.0-45.0
ABV: 4.5-6.0%

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Measured Values:
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OG: 1.051 (1.049 @ 75.5F)
Color seems to match color panel displayed in Beer Smith.
No idea how to measure IBU, but Beer Smith calculates 30.9. I was going for a slightly less hoppy beer this time, on the lower end of the range, and I seem to have hit it.

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Ingredient list:
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10.00 lb Pale Male (2-Row American Briess)
0.50 lb Munich Malt
0.50 lb 20L Crystal Malt
0.25 lb Carapils/Dextrine
1.00 oz. Cascade (6.00%) @ 60 minutes of boil
slightly more than 0.50 oz. Cascade (6.00%) @ 20 minutes of boil
slightly less than 0.50 oz. Cascade (6.00%) @ 5 minutes of boil
1 package SafAle US-05 dry ale yeast

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Procedures:
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Used a Bayou Classic SP-10 propane burner for all heating tasks.
Used a modified 5 gallon Home Depot water cooler with false bottom. Put all 11.25 lbs. of grain into cooler and added just under 3.5 gallons of water at about 160-165F for 60 minutes. (Sometimes it's hard to measure the exact temperature of the water, as it's different from spot to spot. I went on the lower end of the suggested temperature range to avoid overheating the mash.)
Drained mash, putting about the first 2 or 3 quarts back on top to aid with filtering.
Added 2.5 gallons of water at about 190F for batch sparging for a period of 10 minutes.
Drained sparge, putting about 3 quarts back through again.
Began boil.
Had a large foaming action, requiring the addition of almost 2 gallons of cool water to prevent boil over. When foaming action had subsided, I added 1 oz. of Cascade and began the boil clock.
At 40 minutes of boil, I added in just over 0.50 oz. Cascade and placed my heat exchanger (copper tubing hooked to garden hoses) in the boil to sanitize. At 55 minutes of boil, I added the rest of the second ounce of Cascade (just under 0.50 oz.).
The last all grain batch I did had a few small flies in the primary when I racked to secondary, so I placed the lid on top of the kettle when I was cooling the wort to attempt to prevent as many flies from coming in. It took almost 45 minutes to get the wort temperature down below 80 degrees. I then transferred the cooled wort to my primary and pitched my yeast.
I hope to have this beer drinkable by the 24th of July, as I'm going on a bachelor party weekend and want to take some along. A taste of the wort sample was good, but with a surprising bitterness. I hope the fermentation process smooths that out.
The goal for this beer was a light, refreshing, quaffable summertime ale.